🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small shop achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.